The tradition of spending Turkey Day week in West Yellowstone isn’t TUNA’s alone—for cross-country skiers across the US, West Yellowstone Ski Festival, aka “Fall Camp” has been the quintessential kickoff for the snow season. For TUNA, it means families gathering for dinner cooked and enjoyed by club members, skiing twice (or more) every day, camps for the kids, clinics for the adults, and small children in ski pants running amok at the Grey Wolf.
If you’re new to the scene, you’re probably feeling a little lost as to how this all happens. We’ve put together a guide to West so that you can join the fun that comes when we gather on snow. You can visit this article on Utahnordic.org for clickable links.
Lodging
If you do nothing else until November 15th, you’ll want to reserve accommodations in West Yellowstone, Montana for the week, depending on your preference. Do this ASAP because rooms start filling a year in advance. The official Festival dates this year are November 26-30, and many people arrive the weekend beforehand to enjoy a few extra days on snow.
TUNA has traditionally seen a large group of people stay at the Grey Wolf Inn and Suites. They offer some pet-friendly rooms and kitchen rooms. Unfortunately, many of those book a year out, but never fear! The town is so small and walkable—at times skiable—that just about any open hotel will allow you access to this amazing week.
Ski Passes
The West Yellowstone Rendezvous trail system is immense and beautiful, but it’s not free. There are special passes for the month of November available from numerous locations in town including Freeheel and Wheel, the West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce, the trailhead itself, and they even offer a mail-in form. Passes are $70 per skier for the week, $20 for the day, and children under 10 are half price.
In addition to these trails, there are a few other options in the area that are free, including skiing into Yellowstone National Park and along the perimeter. Most people who bring dogs enjoy the “boundary trail” and maps and directions are readily available in town and online.
Getting There
In good weather, the drive to West from Salt Lake is around 5 hours at the speed limit. I-15 to Route 20 gets you there easily, but be aware of bad weather. There are two passes that can close if things get rough enough. The town itself is relatively flat, and the streets are usually packed snow. Snow tires and four-wheel drive aren’t a requirement, but they can make those mountain passes less stressful.
What to Do
Ski! Is there anything else? Well, yes. In those scant times between going skiing and eating, there are a few attractions in West Yellowstone for adults and kids to enjoy. Take in an IMAX movie or watch a wolf and bear feeding at the Grizzley & Wolf Discovery Center. Both are a 2-minute walk from the Grey Wolf and most other hotels. The Wild West Pizzeria also has a 21+ section with billiards and a bar.
As for the skiing, well, Cottonwood Canyons skiers don’t know what to make of the ease of use. Most people park their cars for the week and walk or ski everywhere. Trailheads are all short walks (aka good warmups) from the hotels.
The West Yellowstone Ski Festival offers a variety of top-notch clinics with experienced instructors from all over the US. TUNA will offer camps for Comp, Junior Comp, and possibly younger if there is interest enough. As a club, we’re also planning some impromptu ski outings for families and folks who want to go enjoy snow together.
Food
Skiing 100km in a week burns some calories. That’s why eating gets its own header. Thursday is reserved for a turkey potluck. TUNA members are invited to a large turkey feast—please watch your email for details on that event. If you have a kitchen room, you might volunteer to cook a turkey or another side dish. If not, grab a couple of cans of Cranberry at Smith’s before you leave, make and freeze that Ohio green bean casserole or Minnesota Hot Dish and bring it along. It will probably stay cold in the car, or you can likely talk a person with a kitchen room into babysitting.
You can sign up to come and cook a turkey or bring a dish or side, here: https://www.signupgenius.com/go/9040F4CA5A82CA2FA7-52946538-west
For other meals, there are some open restaurants. Many are open for this week alone. The grocery stores in town are well-stocked with a large variety of food. In fact, it’s surprising how many different cheeses one can find at the Food Roundup. It is, after all, feet from the entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Need Sterno for your fondue? They have it. You can also…buy wine and full-strength beer at the grocery store. Imagine!
The seasoned West veteran shops and packs food in Salt Lake to save a little cash and time. Make double-sized meals in November and freeze half to bring along and reheat. Even in a non-kitchen room, that Crock or Instantpot can save some time and ready a hot meal for your return from the trail.
What to Bring
Skis, of course. Wax supplies—Grey Wolf and others have designated wax areas so that you can keep up that kick and glide.
Food and snacks are obvious, but you’ll also want to think about clothing. Many hotels offer laundry, some even free. It’s dry in West, so clothes/mitts/hats dry pretty quickly, but if you’re planning on skiing twice daily, you’ll want to plan ahead with extra clothing.
Temperatures in West can range from the 30’s F down to some we never see in Salt Lake. Lots of people bring a backpack so that they can wear a giant coat to the trail and then shed it to ski. The trailhead building will be crowded, but people seem to be pretty honest, so you can safely leave clothes and shoes at the trailhead.
Entertainment? People bring board games and cards, and others just like to socialize or veg out on the couch. After all, you earn every bit when you’re out skiing under your own power. Don’t forget a swimsuit if your hotel has a pool and hot tub!
Little Kids
While the older kids are capable of skiing and perhaps enjoying time with coaches, families with young children need not shy from the experience. For many TUNA kids, this is the only Thanksgiving tradition they’ve ever known. Babies in packs and pulks are common on the Rendezvous trails, and never underestimate the power of a short piece of PVC and a rope (think waterskiing). You’ll get a workout and your Learn-to-skier will get to fly through some of the most beautiful country in America. They might even get tired.
Atmosphere
Imagine your freshman dorm experience, but with a reasonable bedtime, better food, and people who share a love of skiing. Maybe you also have kids. Outside of the skiing, small groups and large ones socialize in the lobby, in their rooms, and on the trail. Did I mention Grey Wolf has an indoor pool? (Parents – noise-canceling headphones are a must in that room). Always wanted to ski with your friend on a weekday, but can’t make your lunch hours line up? They will this week.
There is nothing quite like a dawn, blue-wax ski on freshly-groomed classic tracks, or a headlamp adventure on the Boundary Trail after dinner (no night skiing on the Rendezvous, please, and always watch for grooming on any trails). Come back to s’mores on an outdoor fire pit and share a libation with friends. West Fall Camp is everything you make of it, and it just might become your best new tradition.
